What exactly is in those Chicken McNuggets? Kathleen Hulser takes a look at the qualitative decline of the poultry industry. Targeting one of America’s most wealthy chicken men at that time, Frank Purdue, Hulser delivers a sharp and pointed analysis of how chicken is becoming less and less like meat and more like an amorphous food product. Hulser attributes this deterioration of the chicken we eat to the corruption and greed of the poultry industry and its subsequent marginalization of the independent farmer. Not only is it our stomachs that are at stake here, Hulser intones, but the rights of workers, animals and our agricultural legacy. A keen look at the tender, juicy, and plump engineering and marketing of the Chicken product. Hulser is a cultural journalist.